• Magnetek Power Converter Model 6345

A look at the main components of your RV's Power Center using probably the most prevalent Power Center out there, the Magnetek 6300 series. I also discuss upgrade options for the poor 1 stage taper charger/converter found in these units. For the best variety of RV converters, prices and information that I've found check out Best Converters at: Magnetek 6300 upgrade kits: Magnetek/Parrallax upgrade kits (probably not the best choice) Progressive Dynamics (Inteli-Power) 4 stage upgrade kits: Arterra/WFCO brand 3 stage upgrade kits: The Life and Death of a Certain K. Zabriskie, Patriarch by Chris Zabriskie is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license Source: Artist.

Magnetek 6345 Power Converter - Charger, Simplified Theory of Operation. Pulsating DC Power is supplied to the discharged battery from T1, D1-D4. I've got an owners manual, but it doesn't address my question here. In the conv position if hooked up to shore power and switched to batt if you want to use the battery. Find the converter. The converter is a Magnetek 6612. 6300 Series Owner/Operator Manual. AC PANELBOARD. He found his resistor was also defective and his Magnetek power converter was not working. He wrote: Thanks for the writeup.

Hi everybody - I'm a long time reader, first time poster. I love this forum! We got our first RV, a pop-up, last year and have made 6 or 7 trips in it. It's a 1997 Coleman/Fleetwood Bayside, and I have a couple of questions about putting in an automatic 12V charger. Sorry if this is long winded - I just want to be as clear as I can. Right now I have a single flooded cell type 24 battery in my pop-up, just sitting next to the Magnetek converter under the dinette bench, which I charge with a cheap 10A charger before we leave for a dry-camp weekend (rarely more than 3 nights).

We use overhead lights (automotive 1156's) and a phone charger sparingly, and we've been ok so far but I'd like to upgrade a bit. I'm thinking of putting in a BatteryMinder or something similar, permanently connected to AC in the camper, so the batt will charge correctly (i.e., float charge) when I'm plugged in at home. I'll move the battery out to the tongue and use the small (14 gauge?) wires that are already there to connect it.

It seems from the BatteryMinder info that it will both quick charge (a few hours) and also safely float charge if I leave it plugged in all the time. I've checked the wiring diagram on the converter and the battery is completely isolated when in 'Off' or 'Converter' mode, that is, there is no integrated charger in it. So far, so good. But of course when I am plugged in to shore power the AC is always on, even if I am in 'Batt' mode, such as if I am testing something or simply forget to move the switch before I connect up. This means the battery will be getting charging voltage from the BatteryMinder while it is connected to the lights, etc. Seems ok - just want to check. Also, when I upgrade the travel wiring to 7 wire, I'd like to add a hot lead from the TV - should this go right to the positive terminal on the battery?

What regulates the amperage then? I know to run this from the fuse box on a switched circuit (i.e., from alternator, not from TV battery), but should I also install an isolator in-line?

In other words, would it be a problem if the hot lead and the BatteryMinder were both connected to the battery at the same time? It seems weird that there would be voltage going to the alternator from the BatteryMinder when I go to turn over the engine. Again, I don't know.why. I would have the engine runnning while I am connected and also plugged in to shore power (maybe to get a brief air conditioning respite in the truck?) but it's possible.

And it could be all moot - for my minimal needs, should I just leave everything the way it is and put in LED interior lights to extend my range? If so, is it ok to just leave the battery where it is, inside the RV? I know I shouldn't charge the battery with people in there for risk of gassing, so I do it before we leave and make sure it is ventilated. But is it still gassing when it is not being charged, just powering the lights etc.? One more little thing, if I am not overstaying my welcome - why is it recommended to have heavy gauge wiring from the battery? It only powers 2 circuits that are little 14 gauge (or smaller) wire, and then trickle charging the other way, so I don't see where the huge amperage needs are.

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Thanks for looking at this - any help is greatly appreciated. I'm surprised the Magnetek has no charging capability - never heard of a converter model that did not also charge batteries. I'm thinking that in this basic model, the converter is the charger, i.e. There is no separate charging function and the converter output (probably 13.3-14.0v) does the charging as well as powering the DC circuits. All that means is that there is no regulation of the charge - when 120vac is available it is always on and charging unless the battery is physically disconnected from the camper wiring. Be that as it may, you can add a regulated charger of your choice.

Battery minder makes a bunch of models and there are numerous other brands. Boat stores have a good selection of battery maintainers and chargers for the trolling motors on fishing boats work well too. Your main decision is to figure out how many amps of charging you want, which in turn affects the charge time to some degree. For a Group 24 battery, a 5-8 amp charger should do nicely as long as you don't need to recharge from 'dead' in less than a 4-8 hours. Inexpensive cahrgers have little in the way of regulation of the charge and just keep on pumping out the amps.

You want a charger that senses the battery state and goes into 'float charge' mode when the battery is near 100% charge. That way it can stay on all the time. If the battery is inside the camper, then it (hopefully) is a sealed type so it does not gas regularly. You could upgrade that to an AGM type battery for more safety but they are very pricey. On the other hand, you never have to check the water level and they last for many years.

Or move the battery to the tongue as you mentioned (but watch the effect on your tongue weight). Batteries gas when being charged, not when powering things. Battery wires should be heavy enough to carry the expected amp load with plenty to spare. 14 gauge wire is good for around 15 amps at the distances involved in a small camper, so may be sufficient for your installation.

Figure up your amp loads (lights and whatever) and make sure it is no more than 10-12amps at any one time. I double-checked, and there is NO charging going on. The wiring diagram shows the battery positive terminal all alone while in 'Converter' mode. There is only one lead to the battery positive terminal (a red wire with an in-line fuse) and negative is ganged with the grounds (commons) from the DC circuits - that is, all white wires are ganged together. There is no voltage on 'red-to-common' when in Converter mode.

I could connect the positive terminal to both the red wire and one of the DC branch circuits I guess - but that would be kinda weird wouldn't it? Why would they do it that way?

And then, when in dry-camp, that branch circuit would be un-fused, wouldn't it? Besides, if I understand you correctly, there would be no regulation of the charging voltage that way - always 13 or 14 volts to the battery which is no good - correct?

My guess is that on this very basic unit, they avoided the expense of a multi-stage charger and also avoided boiling the batteries by just leaving out the charging function. So - a decent muti-stage charger, 4-8 amp max charge, that I'll hard-wire. Any recommendations? To clarify my 2nd question - for a hot lead from the towing vehicle to the camper, via the 7 way connector, am I supposed to go directly to the positive battery terminal? With or without a) an isolator to make sure voltage cannot go from the camper up to the TV fuse panel; or b) some way to regulate the amperage going to the camper's battery when it's full? Somehow all vehicles are 'float charging' their start batteries, so I'm missing something on how to wire it. Is there such a thing as a multi-stage charger that can take input from both AC and DC sources?

Or should I just forget the whole hot lead fancy stuff until I get a more modern converter/inverter/charger unit? Typically the hot lead from the vehicle goes more or less direct to the positive battery terminal. It is essentially unregulated charging, but it doesn't go on for days on end - just while you are driving. Generally not enough overcharge to be of concern. There is a device called the that will charge from a 12v source.

It is designed to charge a chassis battery from the house battery in a motorhome, but would work to do charging from your converter to the battery in your rig. I'm still a bit mystified about your no-charging converter. Does it somehow physically disconnect the battery from the RV wiring when the converter is turned on? If the converter is putting out 13v or more and the battery remains connected to the 12v wiring, it is getting 13+ volts just like the rest of the circuit and it will receive a charge from it. Not a great charge and no regulation, but a charge none-the-less. As for recommending a charger model, it sort of depends on the budget and how often it needs to be used.

You could buy a nice 3-stage charger for a couple hundred bucks but it would make more sense to replace the existing converter with a Progressive Dynamics of Iota converter/charger. But either of those seems like overkill for charging on a pop-p that is used for casual camping. I'd probably buy a decent automotive type charger and plug it in as needed. If you want to hardwire something in, one of the Battery Minder products will do fine. And here are some.

Yes it does - there is a 3-position rocker switch on the front panel of the converter, 'CONVERTER - OFF - BATTERY'. According to the schematic here:, when in CONVERTER mode the positive battery terminal isn't connected to anything. I've confirmed on other forums that this is the way the Magnetek 6612 works without the 'C' option, which is what I have. I guess the idea was to upsell people into the 'C' or maybe multi-stage chargers were expensive to add way back in 1997. I've asked Trick-L-Start tech support whether it's ok to get line power from the converter, which would create a circular circuit when in BATT mode. I'll post their reply.

Thank you so much Gary, your expertise has saved me a lot of hair pulling and likely a lot of money too! And thanks for the education on that model of Magnetek - it's one I've never encountered before. I guess it was Magentek's answer to the problem they created with their cheap, poorly designed converters that continually overcharged batteries and ruined them. Just disconnect the battery and no worries! Seems like they could have put in some decent charge regulation circuitry for about the same prices as a battery switch, but what do I know? As you say, it was likely an attempt to upsell to the more expensive model. Never did like Magnetek much.

Magnetek Power Converter Model 6345

By the way, they have changed their name to Parallax Power now.